Extracting bioactive compounds from medicinal plants for cosmetic applications

Abstract

erbal cosmeceuticals have attracted increasing scientific and industrial interest because they combine the aesthetic role of cosmetics with the biological activity of plant-derived compounds. The present study aimed to prepare and evaluate a series of plant-based cosmetic formulations using medicinal plant extracts, vegetable oils, natural powders, and chlorophyll derivatives obtained from Spinacia oleracea L. (spinach). Several topical products were formulated, including a chemical antiperspirant cream, an antiperspirant foot cream, a predepilatory exfoliating cream, a post-depilatory soothing cream, a keratolytic wart-care cream, an antiperspirant foot gel, and two herbal charcoal soaps. In parallel, chlorophyll was extracted from spinach leaves by ethanolic extraction and converted into copper and sodium copper chlorophyllin complexes for potential cosmetic application. The prepared formulations were characterized through oil/aqueous phase balance, organoleptic observation, solubility and dispersion behavior, miscibility and centrifugation stability, pH and bromothymol blue indicator tests, long-term visual stability, preliminary skin tolerance, soap pH, free alkali content, foaming power, and DPPH antioxidant activity. The results showed that formulation behavior was strongly influenced by the ratio between hydrophilic, lipophilic, mineral, and powdered ingredients. The antiperspirant creams and hydroalcoholic foot gel showed pH values close to the skin-compatible range, whereas the exfoliating and post-depilatory creams were more alkaline due to their mineral-rich composition. The foot gel showed the best homogeneity after miscibility testing, while lipid- and powder-rich creams displayed phase separation under centrifugation stress. No visible irritation was observed during the preliminary skin tolerance test. The DPPH assay indicated antioxidant potential, particularly for spinach chlorophyll/chlorophyllin and selected botanical formulations. The herbal soaps showed acceptable pH, free alkali, and foaming behavior. Overall, the results suggest that plant-derived ingredients and spinach chlorophyll derivatives can be incorporated into functional cosmetic formulations. However, additional standardized microbiological, dermatological, and instrumental analyses are recommended to confirm their safety, stability, and cosmetic efficacy